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How to Get Your Garden Ready for Spring
There are lots of things you can do right now so your garden’s good to go as soon as spring arrives
Claudia De Yong
16 ноября, 2018
As the nights draw in and the days get shorter, the garden is preparing to go to sleep. However, there are still numerous jobs that can be done outside to prepare your little piece of heaven for the onset of spring. Give these suggestions a try.
Make your own leaf mould
At this time of year, leaves are falling non-stop and it seems like a never-ending task to clear them up.
If you have the room, the best way to use this free source of what gardeners often call ‘autumn gold’ is to make your own leaf mould. This works as a wonderful soil improver, especially for dwarf bulbs, alpines and woodland plants.
If you have a compost heap, you can make a leaf mould by simply adding the leaves. However, it’s best to use larger quantities of leaves on their own in a separate compost bin, as they’ll take a good year at least to rot down. In fact, some leaves from trees such as oak and beech will take even longer, so you may need to keep these separate.
You can use a perforated black plastic bag to make your leaf mould – dampen the leaves if they’re dry and store the bag in a dark corner.
Alternatively, make a cage with wire, wet the leaves and tread down, replenishing the layers as you tread, then cover with a plastic sheet or matting.
At this time of year, leaves are falling non-stop and it seems like a never-ending task to clear them up.
If you have the room, the best way to use this free source of what gardeners often call ‘autumn gold’ is to make your own leaf mould. This works as a wonderful soil improver, especially for dwarf bulbs, alpines and woodland plants.
If you have a compost heap, you can make a leaf mould by simply adding the leaves. However, it’s best to use larger quantities of leaves on their own in a separate compost bin, as they’ll take a good year at least to rot down. In fact, some leaves from trees such as oak and beech will take even longer, so you may need to keep these separate.
You can use a perforated black plastic bag to make your leaf mould – dampen the leaves if they’re dry and store the bag in a dark corner.
Alternatively, make a cage with wire, wet the leaves and tread down, replenishing the layers as you tread, then cover with a plastic sheet or matting.
DIY a compost bin
If you don’t already have a compost bin in your garden, you can easily make one for all your autumn debris. Leaves, soft stems and some kitchen waste will rot down, providing a rich garden medium to return to the soil.
A compost bin doesn’t have to be as elaborate as the one pictured here. Simply set four sturdy upright posts into the ground in a square, about 75cm apart. Attach chicken wire to three sides, leaving the front open.
Add cardboard to the insides and gradually layer garden refuse (no woody stuff), grass clippings and kitchen waste. Mix it in well and cover with a bit of old carpet. Turn frequently and in no time you’ll have lovely homemade garden compost. No need to lug huge bags back from the garden centre anymore!
Need some help with your garden? Find garden contractors and landscapers in your area.
If you don’t already have a compost bin in your garden, you can easily make one for all your autumn debris. Leaves, soft stems and some kitchen waste will rot down, providing a rich garden medium to return to the soil.
A compost bin doesn’t have to be as elaborate as the one pictured here. Simply set four sturdy upright posts into the ground in a square, about 75cm apart. Attach chicken wire to three sides, leaving the front open.
Add cardboard to the insides and gradually layer garden refuse (no woody stuff), grass clippings and kitchen waste. Mix it in well and cover with a bit of old carpet. Turn frequently and in no time you’ll have lovely homemade garden compost. No need to lug huge bags back from the garden centre anymore!
Need some help with your garden? Find garden contractors and landscapers in your area.
Plant tulip bulbs
Tulips give a wonderful spring display and by planting the bulbs later in the year, you could help to prevent blight spores affecting them. As long as there are no frosts, there’s no reason why you can’t plant them well into December.
Tulips should be planted deeply: it’s recommended they should be at a depth of 15 to 20cm, and 7 to 10cm apart. Where possible, avoid planting the bulbs in ground that’s held tulips for the past three years, as you may risk the new plants getting fungal blight.
A good tip if you have heavy soil is also to include a bit of grit in the bottom of your planting holes.
Tulips give a wonderful spring display and by planting the bulbs later in the year, you could help to prevent blight spores affecting them. As long as there are no frosts, there’s no reason why you can’t plant them well into December.
Tulips should be planted deeply: it’s recommended they should be at a depth of 15 to 20cm, and 7 to 10cm apart. Where possible, avoid planting the bulbs in ground that’s held tulips for the past three years, as you may risk the new plants getting fungal blight.
A good tip if you have heavy soil is also to include a bit of grit in the bottom of your planting holes.
Take care of the soil
Avoid leaving your soil bare, without plants, over the winter months, as this can cause a loss in fertility. In nature, you won’t often see great patches of bare soil, as small plants or weeds will quickly take root.
Roots on plants are beneficial to soil organisms, as they exude sugars and other compounds in exchange for minerals and other nutrients. Plant roots also help to prevent soil erosion from winter rain, snow and ice and the loss of further nutrients.
Make sure you mulch your soil in the winter to help protect tender plants while they’re dormant, and insulate them from rapid freezing and thawing. The action of freeze and thaw can, in some cases, cause shallow-rooted plants and bulbs to heave out of the ground.
Freeze and thaw may also damage some grafted plants, so by putting a good layer of mulch on your soil, you’ll help protect your beds over the winter months.
Avoid leaving your soil bare, without plants, over the winter months, as this can cause a loss in fertility. In nature, you won’t often see great patches of bare soil, as small plants or weeds will quickly take root.
Roots on plants are beneficial to soil organisms, as they exude sugars and other compounds in exchange for minerals and other nutrients. Plant roots also help to prevent soil erosion from winter rain, snow and ice and the loss of further nutrients.
Make sure you mulch your soil in the winter to help protect tender plants while they’re dormant, and insulate them from rapid freezing and thawing. The action of freeze and thaw can, in some cases, cause shallow-rooted plants and bulbs to heave out of the ground.
Freeze and thaw may also damage some grafted plants, so by putting a good layer of mulch on your soil, you’ll help protect your beds over the winter months.
Clean your tools
In an ideal world, we should be cleaning our tools after each use. Good housekeeping will help extend their life and prevent the spread of fungal disease. Dirty tools can harbour bacteria and fungi, which can be transferred to fresh pruning wounds.
In an ideal world, we should be cleaning our tools after each use. Good housekeeping will help extend their life and prevent the spread of fungal disease. Dirty tools can harbour bacteria and fungi, which can be transferred to fresh pruning wounds.
- Clean hand tools, such as spades, by plunging them into a bucket of sharp sand after each use. This will keep the blades sharp and clean.
- Wipe wooden handles with a damp cloth. Once dry, apply a layer of teak oil.
- Clean blades with a scrubbing brush and detergent, and maybe some wire wool to remove any traces of sap. Then sharpen them on a whetstone or similar.
- Oil the hinges and any other moving parts of tools such as secateurs and loppers.
- Lawn mowers need a serious clean to remove the build-up of grass and mud inside the deck, and to check for rust and anything that may have affected the blades. You may also need to check the oil filters on a petrol mower. I would suggest you have your lawnmower and other power tools serviced properly at a reputable dealer, then you can store them safe in the knowledge they’ll be fighting fit for spring.
Don’t cut back too soon
Seedheads provide important structure and interest in the garden over the winter, as well as food for birds, so don’t be too quick to cut them back.
Tidy beds and clear old stems and foliage. However, some plants, such as sedum, and grasses such as miscanthus and Eryngium giganteum ‘Silver Ghost’, look lovely when left to catch the early frosts.
You can cut back perennials and divide congested clumps, but leave about 15cm of old growth to protect the crown of less hardy plants and prevent winter damage. Phlomis and echinacea can be left, too, as the seedheads are much loved by goldfinches.
If you’re after some garden storage, take a look in the Houzz Shop.
Seedheads provide important structure and interest in the garden over the winter, as well as food for birds, so don’t be too quick to cut them back.
Tidy beds and clear old stems and foliage. However, some plants, such as sedum, and grasses such as miscanthus and Eryngium giganteum ‘Silver Ghost’, look lovely when left to catch the early frosts.
You can cut back perennials and divide congested clumps, but leave about 15cm of old growth to protect the crown of less hardy plants and prevent winter damage. Phlomis and echinacea can be left, too, as the seedheads are much loved by goldfinches.
If you’re after some garden storage, take a look in the Houzz Shop.
Gleam up the greenhouse
- Check the gutters and remove detritus to allow water to flow unhindered into any butts below.
- Think about covering the top of fall pipes with a wire mesh to trap leaves.
- Clean out water butts before they become full of winter rain. Use a disinfectant and stiff scrubbing brush to clean out any algae, which may produce waterborne diseases if left untouched.
- Remove any plants and protect them.
- Vacuum or sweep out any plant debris.
- Use a non-toxic disinfectant with a stiff brush for all structural parts, getting rid of any bugs that may be lurking in the corners.
- Make sure you also clean the pathways and staging.
- Wash all the glazing inside and outside and repair any broken glass, as cold draughts will cause immediate damage to plants.
- Disinfect all pots, trays and tools, so pests and diseases don’t overwinter in them.
Start your vegetable crops
Vegetables, such as garlic, onion sets and cabbages, can be sown outside and covered with fleece or perforated polythene.
Garlic is probably one of the easiest to grow and needs the cold to divide. Take a clove and plant it 6cm deep in light soil, and a bit deeper in heavier soil. Make sure there’s a gap of about 30cm between each clove.
Broad beans, such as Vicia faba ‘Aquadulce Claudia’, can also be sown now to flower in early spring and will crop by the end of the season. Broad beans sown in the autumn are less susceptible to black fly later.
Make sure you don’t allow the young plants to get too leggy by placing them against a cane and tying in the shoots as they grow.
Discover how to create a wildlife-friendly garden in autumn.
Vegetables, such as garlic, onion sets and cabbages, can be sown outside and covered with fleece or perforated polythene.
Garlic is probably one of the easiest to grow and needs the cold to divide. Take a clove and plant it 6cm deep in light soil, and a bit deeper in heavier soil. Make sure there’s a gap of about 30cm between each clove.
Broad beans, such as Vicia faba ‘Aquadulce Claudia’, can also be sown now to flower in early spring and will crop by the end of the season. Broad beans sown in the autumn are less susceptible to black fly later.
Make sure you don’t allow the young plants to get too leggy by placing them against a cane and tying in the shoots as they grow.
Discover how to create a wildlife-friendly garden in autumn.
Grow some green manure
As the weather has been so mild, it’s still possible to sow deeper-rooted ‘green manure’ crops, such as crimson clover and winter vetch, in patches of bare soil. You can cover them with horticultural fleece to help them. These will also absorb nitrogen from the air and fix it in nodules on their roots.
When they mature, simply dig them back into the soil and all the nutrients will be returned as the plant decomposes. This process will feed the millions of small microorganisms in the soil, stimulating them into creating a healthy, rich growing medium.
The method is particularly good for heavy clays, as the deeply penetrating roots of these plants open up heavy soils, making them easier to manage and allowing for better drainage.
Think also about growing white clover at the base of fruit trees, as this keeps the weeds at bay as well as providing a great habitat for many pest-eating predators.
Tell us…
How are you preparing your garden for next spring? Do you have any grand plans for the coming year? Share your ideas in the Comments section.
As the weather has been so mild, it’s still possible to sow deeper-rooted ‘green manure’ crops, such as crimson clover and winter vetch, in patches of bare soil. You can cover them with horticultural fleece to help them. These will also absorb nitrogen from the air and fix it in nodules on their roots.
When they mature, simply dig them back into the soil and all the nutrients will be returned as the plant decomposes. This process will feed the millions of small microorganisms in the soil, stimulating them into creating a healthy, rich growing medium.
The method is particularly good for heavy clays, as the deeply penetrating roots of these plants open up heavy soils, making them easier to manage and allowing for better drainage.
Think also about growing white clover at the base of fruit trees, as this keeps the weeds at bay as well as providing a great habitat for many pest-eating predators.
Tell us…
How are you preparing your garden for next spring? Do you have any grand plans for the coming year? Share your ideas in the Comments section.
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